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Dropped in on a massive 12 foot wave today at GasChambers (if you do not know the technicalities of those beaches right there, you might think it is Pipeline), then you paddle out to go to get in line to catch the "Big One" that you see breaking out at second reef, you make it out there and get in perfect line, right behind where the monsters are breaking, then right as you were in the perfect spot (you also have a Hawaiian surfer trailing behind you because of the 12 footer he saw you take) this Huge 15 foot wall comes out of no where and is far tooooo developed to try to duck dive under under it, let alone catch it, and is coming at you way to steep and fast to be able to get behind it, and the massive wall crashes right on top of both of you, luckily you knew what was about to hit you, you do your short quick breaths to expand your lungs plenty, then do the best duck dive you can, which you know was going to be futile cause it was coming down right on top of you both......................................................... the wave crashes, the power behind such a huge wave like that is like an aquatic train that then throws you down into the coral infested water, then continues to pull you along with it as it hurdles towards shore, the whole time holding you under, spinning you, pulling your leashed arm all over place, hoping that the leash doesn't wrap around another extremity... especially your neck , finally the time comes when you feel like you can make it to the top now to suck on that sweet salty air which beats the watery alternative..... so you kick and swim, but you realize that you have lost one of your fins during the beating, but know you can not worry about that now because your lungs burn from such an extended period of time of depravation, you know from past experience too that that was only the first wave too, and that you are now in a dangerous zone where the waves continue to break right on top of you...the dreaded break zone.... so as your head breaches the water you take one huge breath.... look.... and know that you are about to be trampled by another wall, hopefully not bigger than the previous, you see that it is not as big but some what comparable to it, and so you dive as deep as you can again, hoping that you will come out as lucky as you did, not being smashed to the reefy bottom that has claimed lives.............. you are then hit again, the same things happen, it seems as though this one holds you under longer, when in reality it is shorter, but because of the exertion of the last one, and the quick ONE breath you got does not seem to suffice .... you somehow make it to the top again and kick with your one fin as hard as you can to get behind the next wave coming, thanking the big man above that it was not a billabong (a three wave set versus a two).... as you kick and swim with your might to accomplish what seems to be a perilous journey, you still look out for that fin which is going to help you catch a wave back in from second reef, you see however the next wave and it is getting bigger, not knowing if you are going to charge it hard and fast enough to get behind it, you feel your self literally gradually swimming up a mountain that gets steeper and steeper and if you don't make it you are going get thrown from the peak of the wave straight in front of it for a very real potential of injury or even death....... you feel your self make it over as you were paddling literally not figuratively, straight up a wall..... to your great surprise though you didn't do something right, and you get dragged down behind it, which is a completely different ride in it of itself, it pulls you ten times the strength of gravity into a white watery grave it seems which is comparable to getting pulled by a boat under water at 25 MPH, you want to take a breath but you know you can't even though you are so close to the surface, but still being dragged behind this massive force just under the surface, finally after what feels an eternity, you feel it ease up and you kick up to the surface with your one naked foot and fin, you suck for air again and see that you have been dragged in far enough away from the monsters that you can take a second breath, and as you do, to your great surprise you fin is right next to you, you grab it put it on as quickly as possible and start kicking so as to catch the wave coming at you, you start kicking and swimming gradually getting pulled up and up onto another watery mountain but this time facing forward, the force behind you propels you fast enough though to get in front of the wave and fly down it's face, and have a nice ride all the way back to shore. You feel relieved and somewhat at ease once out of the water, but still soooo compelled to go out again, you look to the right once walking out of the water and see that the Hawaiian who was obliterated with you has lost his board because the wave snapped his leash, and feel almost lucky and that calling it quits for the day would be an ok thing to do after all. On the drive home you think to yourself, how intense it was and dangerous, but then you remember the 12 foot wave that you caught so right, right before that, and how good it was, and how awesome and serene it was to be the show for the watching Hawaiian surfer that would be smashed with you a little later. you think to yourself how awesome it is, i live in Hawaii, and i get to board on such monster waves. you reflect on the other smaller rides and how fun they had been while talking with one of your buddies who also caught some great waves, and then you get home, to something that was better than that all.......... the best wife in the world, who has made you and your buddy dinner and then later makes you the most amazing brownies ever. She then sits down by you on the couch lets you put your legs on her and fall asleep because she knows that you only got thirty minutes of sleep the night before, before going to work all night!!! Kilie is the best ever, and is my best friend, and i love her more than anything!!!! THe End
-part of the life of Huston Farnsworth on 4/17/2010